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Longboards


Longboarding emerged in the mid 1950s, around the same time that the surfing scene exploded in southern California. When the waves weren’t breaking, surfers took to the streets on their often-homemade boards (wood planks with roller skating wheels were standard), carving up the pavement in a way that mimicked the easy turns of surfing. Soon, “sidewalk surfing” became a sport in its own right, blazing trails that ultimately led to the emergence of skateboarding in the sixties and seventies.

Today, longboarders pride themselves on the same fluid motion and surf-inspired style of the sport’s pioneers. However, now that longboarding has entered the mainstream market, companies have become increasingly more devoted to developing well-designed, high-performance boards.

This guide takes a look at the modern longboard - how it’s made and how it’s used - so that you’ll be aware of what to look for should you decide to buy one of your own.

Components

The components that make up an assembled longboard are similar to those found on a typical skateboard. (Please take some time to review our other articles for a more detailed explanation of each individual part.) However, certain features are modified to reflect a longboarder’s need for stable speed, carvability, and vibration dampening. Here is breakdown of the major parts of any longboard set-up:

DECK
Like regular skateboards, longboards are made from a sturdy wood, such as maple or birch. The average longboard incorporates seven to ten plies of wood, glued and pressed together to provide the basis for what will eventually become a deck. The press forms the board by adding a concave indentation along the length of the deck (for control and foot comfort) and either a rocker or camber (where the middle of the board either sags or pops up). The wooden blank, as it’s called before any shaping has begun, is then sawed into the outline of a longboard shape and sanded for a smooth finish.

Some longboards are manufactured using additional materials to improve certain characteristics of the ride. Fiberglass, foam cores, and carbon fiber stringers can be included to provide strength and stiffness while decreasing weight. Some manufacturers also use exotic woods, such as bamboo or koa, for their aesthetic beauty and durability.

Most longboard decks are between 35-60″ long and roughly 8 ½-9 ½” wide. (There are also mini decks that have smaller proportions.)

TRUCKS
Longboard trucks are made up of the same components as normal skate trucks, with some distinguishing features. First, the kingpin is usually reversed to face outward - a so-called “inverted kingpin” - giving the board better clearance and a tighter turning radius. Also, the hanger is wider, usually 150-180mm (6-7″), providing riders a more stable base for carving. The bushings (rubber cushions in the trucks that dampen vibrations) should be of the softest variety when used for cruising; however, harder bushings are necessary to keep you in control at speed if you plan on bombing big hills.

WHEELS/BEARINGS
The wheels on a longboard are larger than those of a small skate, providing a faster ride with much more stability. They usually fall between 64-80mm in diameter, though there are larger wheels (up to 100mm) available for specialized longboards. Big wheels provide a larger surface area to absorb the bumps of rough terrain, giving the skater a smoother and more controlled ride.

The other part of any wheel’s description is its hardness, referred to as its durometer rating. The typical skateboard wheel has a relatively hard durometer, between 90A and 100A; longboard wheels range from 75A to 85A (78A is pretty standard), making them much softer by comparison. This added softness translates to a firmer grip on the road, which is better for fluid turns and tight carves at high speeds.

Because longboarding is full of such maneuvers, it’s also common to see riser pads between the deck and the baseplate, elevating the board higher above the wheels to add clearance and prevent wheelbite during sharp turns.

As far as bearings go, longboards use the same as standard skateboards. The 608 size is the universal industry standard.

Riding Styles

Like their smaller counterparts, longboards can be used in a variety of ways. Not only can you ride your board around town as a healthy and fun mode of transportation, but you can also take the sport to a more extreme level, bombing huge hills and performing difficult carves. Here we provide an explanation of the most common riding styles, as well as some suggested sizes and tuning options for each.

TRANSPORTATION
Many people buy longboards to use as transportation. Skating is a healthy and “green” way to get around town, not to mention a lot more fun than sitting in traffic. With the needs of this group of riders in mind, manufacturers design boards that are specifically geared toward the commuter’s comfort; they are often able to turn in narrow places and can ride off of curbs with relative ease.

Longboards made for this purpose are typically between 40-50″ long, with a short, narrow nose and a kick-tail for making it around tight corners. In order to increase comfort and sustain longer rides, the deck should be pretty flexible (so don’t worry about it when you step on at first and the wood gives a bit). The trucks also tend to be pretty loose, giving the rider more flexibility and control through turns.

DOWNHILL/BOMBING
The most extreme version of longboarding, downhill riding is exhilarating and difficult. At speeds that can run upwards of 50 MPH, riders of this type will tackle hills in a straight line, from top to bottom. This can be really dangerous on public roads, so a few people are usually on hand to ensure that the street is clear of cars.

Boards for bombing hills are on the shorter end of the deck-size spectrum, usually between 60-80″ long. They are also much more stiff than a board used for casual riding, because the rigidity enhances road feel and lends more control to the rider at high speeds. In addition to a shorter, stiffer deck, the wheelbase of the board is also tuned to meet the demands of downhill riding. Setting the trucks farther apart drastically increases the board’s stability, but makes it more difficult to turn. Some boards are even designed with what is called a lowered/dropped platform, meaning that the deck is either mounted below the trucks’ baseplates or the shape of the deck itself is lower between the trucks. With a dropped platform, the rider experiences a lower center of gravity.

CRUISING/CARVING
Some people go on jogs to get exercise. Others ride their bikes. Still others grab their longboard and head out in search of some mellow hills to carve up. This style of longboarding is a reflection of the sport’s roots, when surfers devised a way to ride the pavement when the waves weren’t turning. Full of technical carves in narrow spots, sweeping turns and with a big emphasis on style, cruising has gained popularity as good training for snowboarders, surfers and skaters alike.

Boards designed for carving are the longest boards made - they run anywhere between 95-110″ in length, with a shape that mimics the surfboards from which they originated. The trucks on a cruiser should be tuned somewhere between the looseness of commuter boards and the tightness of bombers. This strikes a balance that lets riders maintain control during the faster portions of a hill but still have enough maneuverability to make the hard carves that this riding style is known for.

OTHER
There are various other forms of longboarding - including slalom, dancing and long distance/pumping - that are less common than those described above.

Slalom longboarding is a speed sport, similar to its snowy counterpart. Dancing involves changing stances on the deck of your board, performing side-stepping maneuvers, as well as ridiculous tricks like a G-turn, where the rider nose-manuals for awhile before swinging the tail around to the front and riding out backward. Long distance boarders can be found skating miles of terrain, alternating their push legs and pumping the board to prolong the ride. As the sport continues to develop, there are even more emerging styles of longboarding to try and master.

Common Maneuvers

Longboarding is all about gliding on the pavement- and looking good while doing it.

BRAKING
Like any vehicle, a longboard is only safe to ride if you know how to stop it. There are a number of different braking techniques employed by longboarders, some of which are described below:

Run outs - When you’re not going too fast and the area is clear of any people, it’s OK to jump off of your board and “run out” the momentum you’re carrying. This way of stopping is only acceptable if you are sure that the board will not be a threat to any people or property as it continues to roll. Running out is really only useful if you’re riding super slow, or as a last resort bailout if you can’t stop any other way.
Air brake - Air braking uses the idea of wind resistance to slow down at high speeds. Standing upright, the rider stretches his arms out to either side, slowing down (a little).
Slide brake - Also called a power slide, this type of breaking is used mainly by downhill longboarders to come to a complete stop very quickly. Essentially, the rider makes a rapid, controlled turn sideways, often placing a hand on the cement to steady himself (for this reason, protective gloves are necessary accessories for most bombers).
Foot brake - If you’re just trying to slow down a little, you can run the sole of your shoe along the road, dragging it to decrease your speed. Foot braking requires good balance and sturdy shoes.
Sit brake - This is where a rider sits down on his board, sled-style, and uses his outstretched feet to slow the board to a stop. Because it requires a lot of effort and balance to get into the seated position, and because of the damage it causes to shoes, sit braking is not a preferred method of stopping among most longboarders.

When it comes to stopping on a longboard, riding the momentum out is almost always the best option. This means bombing a hill with a long, flat section at the bottom, allowing you to slow to a stop over some distance. Riding out your line is the safest option in most cases and causes the least damage to your board and shoes.pumping
Pumping a skateboard evokes the same feeling as pumping on a swing set. As you ride, use your legs and hips to shift the momentum towards the front of the board, like surfers do to increase or maintain their speed. The goal is to move the board forward without ever touching your feet to the pavement. (Some people go on long-distance pumping rides where they see how far they can go before using their feet.)

CARVING
Carving is when a longboarder makes controlled turns on the road by leaning forward onto his toes (toe side turns) or backward onto his heels (heel side turns). When these turns are strung together, the result is an S-shaped line that will slow down the rider and provide a good opportunity to rack up some style points.

DRIFTING
When taking a turn at high speeds, a longboarder will often find that the wheels on his board lose traction, sending the skate sliding to the side as he rounds the bend. This is sometimes an accidental misjudgment of momentum, but it can also be controlled to the point that it becomes a respectable trick. An integral part of the downhill scene, drifting can be dangerous and cause injuries if not done correctly, but is a big showstopper when executed well.

BOARD WALKING
Making technical stance changes on a longboard is known as board walking. Riders perform “grapevine”-esque moves, cross stepping up and down the length of the board, and switch feet by jumping and turning in the air. This is an expressive, stylish form of longboarding.

The longboard market is one of the fastest growing sectors of the skateboarding industry. Manufacturers and riders continue to progress the sport through constant innovation and development, so stay tuned to see what they’ll come up with next-

Can’t get enough skateboarding? Check out our guide to apparel and shoes.

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